Huge swells wrap around lighting up Fort Point and beyond – beautiful days

One dark cold early morning my cousin took me to surf Fort Point.  First time I had been and it was bigger than I was comfortable with, I was feeling scared and anxious.  My cousin jumped off the rocks and breezed out like it was effortless.  I watched for a bit and then scrambled down the rocks slipping and banging my knee on a sharp rock, I sort of crawled into the water and then flailingly paddled as hard as I could to get outside before I got smashed by a set.

I made it out and then watched in a panic at how close the take off spot was from the huge sharp rocks…