In the second of these three sessions I was expecting small leftover surf:
Sign #1 it’s a great day – a local non-surfer asks if there is some special event today.
Sign #2 as I am getting close to the water I see a dozen people on every peak.
Sign #3 as I am warming up I see 3 guys pull in and get barreled – clean head high heavy with great shape.
Sign #4 after a long paddle through the impact zone I find the cleanest smoothest water I have seen all season.
Sign #5 I catch my first wave within minutes and after the drop a crisp glassy wall throws over.
Sign #6 I get detonated and can’t wait to get back out for more.
Sign #7 it’s a great day – I have a dozen or more fun long rides, connect with great people, and my voice feels sore from hooting so much…
Fall seemed elusive this year as October and November were full of big and stormy surf. December settled down and we scored three swells of beautifully groomed offshore surf. Fun to massive size waves and light to howling winds has me pondering the right tools to take on these conditions.
Below is the full video with music and voice over.
Length – 08:10
I hope you enjoy…
I spent decades trying to create a safe place. Safety in numbers, safer neighborhood, alarm systems, weapons, and self defense classes. After trying all these methods I still felt unsafe.
Listening to a guided meditation the speaker asked me to imagine a safe place. I thought of all the places I have been to and it dawned on me that I didn’t feel safe anywhere. Now that I was aware of the problem I was actively seeking a new solution. It snuck up on me through a mandatory meditation walk, required training for a martial arts class.
On that meditation walk I felt scared I would get poison oak, and I realized how unnatural it is for a human being to be afraid of nature. As part of a group I saw and heard a broad range of comfort with being in a forest. This showed me where I was at and what feeling really comfortable and safe looked like.
I heard being in nature spoken of as a satisfying sexual experience.
What?!? Really??? At the time I didn’t feel this way, I was however very inspired to continue the practice and see where it led me…
Beautiful day of big, and to my eyes, perfect surf at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. One of the most amazing days I have seen, seemed like the planets aligned to provide big clean consistent barrels. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing these surfers ride these incredible waves.
Here is a the video with music and voice over…
The most unique surf session I have had yet. Fall always brings gifts, treats, and magical days. After six months of spring and summer onshore winds Ocean Beach smooths over for a beautiful day of fun waves, a pod of dolphins, and a Great White Shark jumping straight up clean out of the water. Maybe most incredible is that the Surfline camera captured the amazing shark jump. I always look forward to fall and appreciate the arrival, and now I suspect this day will stand out in my memories for a long time.
Below is the entire video with narration from this magical fall day.
Length – 02:57
I hope you enjoy…
I had a great time at the Heavy Water event at Ocean Beach Yesterday. Big thanks to the organizers and athletes for bringing the wonderful SUP community together. Feels good to see and be seen and known among good people at the beach. Also might be the first time in history there have only been SUP surfers in the water at Ocean Beach.
Here is a quick slo mo highlight, and below is the complete edit with narration…