In the second of these three sessions I was expecting small leftover surf:
Sign #1 it’s a great day – a local non-surfer asks if there is some special event today.
Sign #2 as I am getting close to the water I see a dozen people on every peak.
Sign #3 as I am warming up I see 3 guys pull in and get barreled – clean head high heavy with great shape.
Sign #4 after a long paddle through the impact zone I find the cleanest smoothest water I have seen all season.
Sign #5 I catch my first wave within minutes and after the drop a crisp glassy wall throws over.
Sign #6 I get detonated and can’t wait to get back out for more.
Sign #7 it’s a great day – I have a dozen or more fun long rides, connect with great people, and my voice feels sore from hooting so much…
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