Another 6 months or so of foil sessions, guesstimating my total to be somewhere between 250 and 300 sessions, I stopped counting at 150. I have not ridden a non-foil board since June of 2018 (2 days in Maui). The speed, length or ride, and maneuverability of a foil is so far beyond what I can do on a surfboard.
The best part is the freedom, the expansive open space to roam AND share a wave with multiple foilers, and we are stoked and welcome each other dropping in. The crowded, sitting in a claustrophobic pack of hostile short board wave jockeys seems so stifling and antiquated, I literally cannot imagine going back to that.
I now feel much kinship with the pelicans and all birds. A foil lineup looks more like the ancient Hawaiian and Polynesian depictions of their surfing – together – for joy and playing with each other in the ocean.
