Offshore Surf Chronicles – Video

Locked into an offshore beautyFall seemed elusive this year as October and November were full of big and stormy surf. December settled down and we scored three swells of beautifully groomed offshore surf. Fun to massive size waves and light to howling winds has me pondering the right tools to take on these conditions.

 

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Below is the full video with music and voice over.
Length – 08:10
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Safe Place – Feeling Comfortable Anywhere – Video

Kelly Slater looking comfortable and safe in a difficult moveI spent decades trying to create a safe place.  Safety in numbers, safer neighborhood, alarm systems, weapons, and self defense classes.  After trying all these methods I still felt unsafe.

Listening to a guided meditation the speaker asked me to imagine a safe place.  I thought of all the places I have been to and it dawned on me that I didn't feel safe anywhere.  Now that I was aware of the problem I was actively seeking a new solution.  It snuck up on me through a mandatory meditation walk, required training for a martial arts class.

On that meditation walk I felt scared I would get poison oak, and I realized how unnatural it is for a human being to be afraid of nature.  As part of a group I saw and heard a broad range of comfort with being in a forest.  This showed me where I was at and what feeling really comfortable and safe looked like.

I heard being in nature spoken of as a satisfying sexual experience.

What?!?  Really???  At the time I didn't feel this way, I was however very inspired to continue the practice and see where it led me.

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Length - 04:34
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Magical Fall Day – Dolphins, Great White Shark, and Fun Waves

ob-fall-magic-dolphinsThe most unique surf session I have had yet.  Fall always brings gifts, treats, and magical days.  After six months of spring and summer onshore winds Ocean Beach smooths over for a beautiful day of fun waves, a pod of dolphins, and a Great White Shark jumping straight up clean out of the water.  Maybe most incredible is that the Surfline camera captured the amazing shark jump.  I always look forward to fall and appreciate the arrival, and now I suspect this day will stand out in my memories for a long time.

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Below is the entire video with narration from this magical fall day.  
Length - 02:57
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Clay Island a Surf Tale – Film – Watch Now

clay-island-a-surf-taleBelow is a version of the film Clay Island a Surf Tale that has been modified slightly, one scene has been shortened by a minute or two. The full version is still available here: Amazon.com. The original movie website can be found here: clayisland.com/movie.

Length - 33:23
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