One dark cold early morning my cousin took me to surf Fort Point. First time I had been and it was bigger than I was comfortable with, I was feeling scared and anxious. My cousin jumped off the rocks and breezed out like it was effortless. I watched for a bit and then scrambled down the rocks slipping and banging my knee on a sharp rock, I sort of crawled into the water and then flailingly paddled as hard as I could to get outside before I got smashed by a set.
I made it out and then watched in a panic at how close the take off spot was from the huge sharp rocks. I saw my cousin catch many waves and make it look easy. I might have tried to catch a few but I was being cautious and to scared to sit that close to the rocks. I had only been surfing a couple years and my ability to catch and ride a wave had a success rate somewhere between 50-75%. I wasn’t feeling confident surfing with my back to the wave at a spot with a sketchy take off and no beach to retreat to if it all went wrong. So I mostly watched and then feeling embarrassed made the long paddle to the easy way out of the water, me and my aching knee were to scared to try scrambling up those sharp slippery rocks.
A few years later one of the biggest swells to ever hit California arrived, Ft. Point came alive in a whole new way on this beautiful sunny day. Parts of the beach that were usually flat had transformed into fast speedy barrels. First wave I saw a guy wearing a helmet and riding a longboard pull into a chest high tube just a few feet from the beach. The second most astonishing part of this day is that there were only a handful of guys in the water. I paddled out and quickly realized why, the current was so strong I had to paddle continuously to stay in place. I lasted maybe 45 minutes and then had to come in because I was exhausted. Up the beach from where I was surfing there were head high or bigger barrels breaking dangerously close to the sharp boulders, all goofy foot surfers, and I have yet to see anyone take on that section on their backhand.
The best day I have seen at fort point was a 6-8 foot day when almost every wave was a clean makable A-frame barrel, another beautiful sunny warm day. I have no idea why it was good, somehow the planets aligned and delivered the best waves Fort Point has to offer. I have been checking Fort Point on many swells for the past 20 years and I have yet to see it even remotely close to as good as that day.
I still check it often, and every now and then I am surprised to see fun looking waves and good vibes. The good vibes seem in shorter supply then good waves, and often it feels like I am only the one bringing my joy to the ocean and sharing the stoke. So I post this video reluctantly, concerned there might be negative push back, as I have had more hostile run-ins at Fort Point than I can remember.
Hope is the real reason I am posting this, it only takes a few bright shining lights to illuminate the shadows and inspire us all to be more welcoming and celebrate every being who shows up. We all have a moment to moment choice – we can be afraid and attack those who seem like a threat, or we can choose to see everyone as a gift. Giving them a warm loving welcome and trusting it will be circulated and returned in spectacular ways beyond our wildest dreams.
One day at Fort Point I was welcomed by a man, everyone was welcomed by him, and he seemed to know everyone. It was as if his purpose there was to put out good vibes, this was such an unusual experience for me that I was suspicious. Why is this guy so kind and welcoming, what is his angle? I eventually came to the conclusion that he is an enlightened being. He figured out what all awake individuals have discovered – the universe is friendly and love beauty is everywhere and in all beings. He told me his name and gave me a website that I have since forgotten, maybe salt water surfing Buddha or soul surfer spirit or something similar to this? If anyone knows how to contact him I would appreciate letting me know. I am not sure what the surf was like that day or if I caught any waves, I do remember with absolute clarity how good it felt to be welcomed.
Learn to Foil and see more videos by becoming a member: