I am renaming San Francisco Tube City after seeing so many epic barrels this beautiful warm winter day. Twice in the past three years I have wished I brought a prone shortboard with me, a shallow fast reef break in Maui and this day at Ocean Beach.
Driving to the beach I had no idea it would be hollow and barreling. The last time I saw this many barrels it was huge and serious...
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I made a foil surfing tutorial series for SUP The Magazine. Designed for newbies and beginners. I made it now when I am still learning myself. I have found that after I have progressed and developed advanced skills it is challenging to remember how difficult being a beginner was.
Also I suspect down the road will be fun to have a video record of where I was and my thinking about foil surfing. I wish I had this from my early prone surfing days. Now it's hard to imagine not being able to paddle out and catch a bunch of waves and do whatever turns I want...
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Happy New Year! I have seen more SUP surfers out at the spots I routinely surf, a welcome addition. Also I have met and been hanging out with more surfers then ever before, another welcome addition to my life. The most enjoyable part for me is the welcoming inclusive vibe, everyone is glad to see each other and stoked to share waves.
I am looking forward to seeing what unfolds in 2018 and I hope to see you soon...
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On paper Cohousing might seem like any other Condo or Home Owners Association (HOA). Every CoHousing community I have seen looks, feels, and is very different. I am reminded of my transition to barefoot. I was unable to immediately ditch my rigid hiking boots and go barefoot all day, my feet were not ready for it. Likewise going straight from single family home to tribal living might be to much of a culture shock. Co-Housing seems to fit somewhere on the spectrum between domesticated humans in isolated single family homes and wild hunters and gatherers living as an egalitarian tribe.
Learning to move my feet rail to rail made a huge difference in my turns, control, and confidence in any conditions. In this video I break down the footwork that empowers us to do radical maneuvers, make sections, and kick out. I slowed down and enlarged the footage so we can see how the pros move and position their feet to enable them to do stylish fluid turns.
For beginners this footwork helps us stay in control and have more confidence when taking a large SUP into a crowded surf zone. With the right footwork we are safer for everyone around us and ourselves, this is an important skill to have on these bigger boards. Also we are enabled to have longer rides and do those carving turns that feel so good...
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On day I added up the parts cost of one of the carbon fiber camera mounts I was making, the total was almost $200. I saw the bamboo poles that were sitting unused in my garage and remembered I only paid a few bucks each for them. So I spent the next hour hacking together a bamboo mount, tried it in the surf the next day, and it was a total and instant failure. I gave up on bamboo for a while.
A few weeks ago we had an epic super fun mass downwind surf outing - Glidezilla.
So fun to get together with this many surfers and water folks. Often I go alone or with a one or two people, so going with over 25 paddlers was a first for me. Awesome to have the social gathering before and after at the BBQ. I hope this becomes a regular event.
I enjoyed Glidezilla so much I felt inspired to make a how to downwind video. Seeing so many wonderful SUP surfers all around me I was able to confirm what works and what skills are needed...
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The past week I tried downwind foiling in the San Francisco Bay with wind in the teens. Not enough wind for me to get the foil to lift. Yet I had the thought that if only I had just a little boost, enough to get the foil to lift and then with less drag I could ride those little bumps.
I got off my board and tried pushing the board into the little waves with my hand and after about 5 feet the foil was flying! It took very little energy to lift. I was like wow there has to be some simple way to get a little extra juice and launch us into these waves?!?
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One fine day the best SUP surfers in the world came to Ocean Beach in San Francisco. When the pros come to town I do my best to go out and watch and learn I can from them. Seeing them on TV or at a break I am unfamiliar with is one thing. Then seeing them doing things I have never seen anyone do at one of my favorite beaches is mind expanding and inspiring...
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I have found that folks who are willing to try new types of surfing are very welcoming and I enjoy being with them. Foil surfing has demonstrated to me again that those who see value in the weird or different seem to see value and good in everyone. For me Sitting in a crowded lineup feels similar to being in a office for 12 hours a day, I feel trapped and want to burst out running into the forest. With SUP and foil people, doing our own thing and welcoming everyone to join us, I feel welcome and at home.
On my twelfth day of learning to foil surf it all came together. I caught a wave, lifted up on the foil and flew down the line, opened my eyes to a new world of flying...
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