Huge swells wrap around lighting up Fort Point and beyond – beautiful days

Lighting Up Fort PointOne dark cold early morning my cousin took me to surf Fort Point.  First time I had been and it was bigger than I was comfortable with, I was feeling scared and anxious.  My cousin jumped off the rocks and breezed out like it was effortless.  I watched for a bit and then scrambled down the rocks slipping and banging my knee on a sharp rock, I sort of crawled into the water and then flailingly paddled as hard as I could to get outside before I got smashed by a set.

I made it out and then watched in a panic at how close the take off spot was from the huge sharp rocks…

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First Gofoil Maliko Downwind SUP Foil Attempt

Downwind SUP FoilFirst attempt to fly the Gofoil Maliko downwind SUP foil in the San Francisco Bay here in Alameda.

With the foil sticking out of the bottom of the board and the camera pole sticking off the top it was a bit of a challenge to get it in and out of the water.  Pretty comical actually, and then at the end of the run the water is only a couple feet deep over thick mud.  To get back to land I took the camera pole off, turned the board upside down, and prone paddled to the beach.  The fisherman didn’t quite no what to make of me or what I was doing.

Trying for a wave I felt the board accelerate and release, or maybe even fly?  Good thing I have the video to watch and see what was going on, as when in the water I couldn’t tell if the board was flying or not…

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A Surf Tale – Recut – All 3 versions

A Surf Tale - Recut with Directors CommentaryStoked to present the recut version of A Surf Tale!  I trimmed and cut the scenes that didn't work, and remastered the video for HD.  Below are three versions:

1- The first is the recut with directors commentary;

2- The second is the recut with the original sound and music score;

3- The third is the is the recut with the original score and the addition of narration.

Here is a preview of the recut with director's commentary:

Below are the three versions of this film.
Length of each is – 26:49
I hope you enjoy watching as much as I enjoyed reliving this adventure...


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My First Time SUP Foil Surfing – Video

Go Foil SurfingThis foil surfing project has been 10 months in the making for me, and it really got going yesterday.  First time ever riding a foil or having any experience with a tuttle box.  Big learning curve for me.

I felt anxious as soon as I decided this day was the day to try it.  I had no baseline to even guess what I was in for.  Paddling out and going for a wave was a rush, and I never thought I would be terrified in knee high gutless mushy waves.

Looking forward to trying DW foiling here in the San Francisco Bay.  I suspect this will open up a whole new area of wave riding.  Thousands of wind waves go unridden and the bay is often empty of any wave riders.   Foiling could change this,literally creating surf spots overnight where they have never been before…

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Three Sessions – A Fantastic Week of Ocean Beach – SUP Surfing

Ocean Beach - Second SessionIn the second of these three sessions I was expecting small leftover surf:

Sign #1 it’s a great day – a local non-surfer asks if there is some special event today.

Sign #2 as I am getting close to the water I see a dozen people on every peak.

Sign #3 as I am warming up I see 3 guys pull in and get barreled – clean head high heavy with great shape.

Sign #4 after a long paddle through the impact zone I find the cleanest smoothest water I have seen all season.

Sign #5 I catch my first wave within minutes and after the drop a crisp glassy wall throws over.

Sign #6 I get detonated and can’t wait to get back out for more.

Sign #7 it’s a great day – I have a dozen or more fun long rides, connect with great people, and my voice feels sore from hooting so much…

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Living Barefoot – My Gateway to Tribe – How I Transitioned from Boots – Retribe Podcast #2

Living Barefoot – My Gateway to Tribe – How I Transitioned from Boots – Retribe Podcast #2

I remember going on a easy hike with my former in-laws and being embarrassed that I had trouble finishing. My knees, hips, and back were aching, I was wearing thick rigid hiking boots with a lot of arch support and raised heels. That was about a decade ago and in a way the final straw of buying footwear with ever increasing cushioning, support, rigidity, and even orthotic inserts. Going barefoot eliminated my pain, restored health and strength to my feet, and opened me up to a new way of seeing the world.

In this episode…

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Offshore Surf Chronicles – Video

Locked into an offshore beautyFall seemed elusive this year as October and November were full of big and stormy surf. December settled down and we scored three swells of beautifully groomed offshore surf. Fun to massive size waves and light to howling winds has me pondering the right tools to take on these conditions.
 
Below is the full video with music and voice over.
Length – 08:10
I hope you enjoy…

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